Ревущие двадцатые: 1920–1929

Anonymous, Meditations of a Flapper. By One, Dranes, 1922.

Brogan, Hugh, The Penguin History of the United States of America, 2nd edn, Penguin, 2001.

Gorman, Daniel, The Emergence of International Society in the 1920s, Cambridge University Press, 2012.

Marshik, Celia (ed.), The Cambridge Companion to Modernist Culture, Cambridge University Press, 2014.

Miller, Nathan, New World Coming: The 1920s and the Making of Modern America, DaCapo Press, 2004.

Moore, Lucy, Anything Goes: A Biography of the Roaring Twenties, Atlantic, 2009.

Peretti, Burton W., Nightclub City: Politics and Amusement in Manhattan, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2007.

Taylor, D. J., Bright Young People: The Rise and Fall of a Generation 1918–1940, Vintage, 2008.

О том, как школьницы ели парфюм: «Oppose Perfume Eaters», New York Times, 29 January 1924.

«Perfume and Toilet Goods Trades on Solid Basis», The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, March 1921.

О реакции торговли на введение «сухого закона»: «A National Menace», The

American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, June 1921.

«Mi Lady’s Perfumes», Variety, March 1927.

Stefan Zweig, The Post Office Girl, trans. Joel Rotenberg, Sort Of Books, 2009.

«$20,000 Perfume on Truck is Stolen», New York Times, 26 November 1927.

Howard S. Neiman, «The Psychology of Trademarks», The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, May 1921.

HABANITA

Рекламу сигарет Abdulla можно посмотреть на: http://tomboystyle.blogspot. co.uk/2014/06/moment-abdulla-advertisements-of-1920s.html, посещение 10 мая 2015 г.

О популяризации сигарет: Allan M. Brandt, The Cigarette

Century: The Rise, Fall, and Deadly Persistence of the Product that Defined America, Basic Books, 2007; Francesca Middleton, Women, Smoking and the Popular Imagination of the 1920s: From Squalor to Glamour, University of London, 2002.

CHANEL № 5

История Chanel № 5: Tilar J. Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel № 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume, HarperCollins, 2010.

Биография Габриель Шанель: Lisa Chaney, Chanel: An Intimate Life, Penguin, 2012; Axel Madsen, Coco Chanel: A Biography, Bloomsbury, 2009; Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, trans. Euan

Cameron, Pushkin Press, 2008; Justine Picardie, Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life, Harper, 2013; Hal Vaughan, Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War, Vintage, 2012.

NUIT DE NOËL

Fred W. Longshaw and Richard E. Thompson, «At the Christmas Ball», performed by Bessie Smith, Preachin’ the Blues, 1925.

«New York Heeds the Call of Fancy Dress», Vogue, American edition, April 15 1922.

BAIN DE CHAMPAGNE

История шампанского: Serena Sutcliffe, A Celebration of Champagne, Mitchell Beazley, 1988.

О пристрастии Эдуарда VII к купанию в ванных с шампанским: Jane Ridley, Bertie: A Life of Edward VII, Chatto & Windus, 2012.

О влиянии «сухого закона» на США: Edward Behr,

Prohibition: Thirteen Years That Changed America, Skyhorse Publishing, 2011; Daniel Okrent, Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition, Scribner Book Company, 2011.

«Earl Carroll Producer», The Milwaukee Sentinel, 1 November 1926.

«News of «Wild Party» Starts Investigation», Modesto News Herald, 25 February 1926.

О суде над Эрлом Кэрроллом: http://law.justia.com/cases/federal/appellate-courts/F2/16/951/1481403/, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.

Отчет о суде над Эрлом Кэрроллом и приговор: «Earl Carroll on Trial for Perjury in Bathtub Case», The Montreal Gazette, 21 May 1926; “Earl Carroll Will Start for Prison on April 12”, The Pittsburgh Press, 4 April 1927.

Dorothy Parker, «Inventory Poem», Enough Rope Poems, Bony & Liveright, 1926.

Robert Forrest Wilson, Paris on Parade, Bobbs-Merrill, 1925.

LE DANDY

Oliver Herford, The Deb’s Dictionary, Methuen & Co., 1932.

История дендизма в 1920-х годах: Catherine R. Mintler, «From Aesthete to Gangster: The Dandy Figure in the Novels of F. Scott Fitzgerald», The F. Scott Fitzgerald Review, Volume 8, 2010.

О джазовом музыканте Лесли Хатчинсоне и его пристрастии к Chanel № 5, see: Charlotte Breese, Hutch, Bloomsbury, 1999.

Биография Стивена Тенанта: Philip Hoare, Serious Pleasures: Life of Stephen Tennant, Penguin, 1992.

Интервью с правнуком Стивена Тенанта, в котором упоминаются парфюмы Worth: Rebecca Wallersteiner, “The Brightest Young Thing”,

The Lady, 30 November 2001.

О возвращении имени D’Orsay как названия парфюмерного дома в двадцатом веке: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/D’Orsay – (maison_de_parfum), посещение 11 мая 2015; Nick Groom, The New Perfume Handbook, 2nd edn, Blackie Academic and Professional, 1997.

D’Orsay advertisement for Le Dandy, featured in Vogue, American edition, 13 October 1930.

GARDENIA

Торговые отчеты о возрастающей популярности гардении в парфюмах и косметике: Druggists’ Circular, Volume 80, 1936;

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, Volume 28, 1937.

Aldous Huxley, Point Counter Point, Doubleday, Doran and Co., 1928.

AMOUR AMOUR; QUE SAIS-JE?; ADIEU SAGESSE

«The Cult of the Nose», Vogue, American edition, 15 May 1925.

«Perfumes and Personality», Arts and Decoration, June 1925.

TUTANKHAMON PHARAOH SCENT

Подробный отчет о египтомании: Bob Brier, Egyptomania: Our Three Thousand Year Obsession with the Land of the Pharaohs, Palgrave Macmillan, 2013.

Dudley S. Corlett, «The Kohl Pots of Egypt», Vogue, American edition, 1 September 1923.

Clara E. Laughlin, So You’re Going to the Mediterranean! And if I Were Going with You These Are the Things I’d Invite You to Do, Houghton Mifflin Company, 1935.

HUILE DE CHALDÉE

О загаре как стильной новинке в 1920-е годы: Alys Eve Weinbaum et al. (eds), The Modern Girl Around the World: Consumption, Modernity, and Globalization, Duke University Press, 2008.

Цитата о сцене в Довиле: «Deauville Diversions (Being the Musings of Miranda)», The Sketch, 2 August 1922 and 30 August 1922.

ZIBELINE

Статистика популярности мехов в этот период: Carol Dyhouse: «Skin Deep: The Fall of Fur», History Today, 22 February 2012.

Об истории одежды из меха: Chantal Nadeau, Fur Nation: From the Beaver to Brigitte Bardot, Routledge, 2001.

Dodie Smith, I Capture the Castle, William Heinemann, 1948.

C.S. Lewis, The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe, Geoffrey Bles, 1950.

Грозные тридцатые: 1930–1939

Basinger, Jeanine, The Star Machine, Vintage, 2009.

Gardiner, Juliet, The Thirties: An Intimate History, HarperPress, 2011.

Horwood, Catherine, Keeping Up Appearances: Fashion and Class Between the Wars, The History Press, 2011.

Mcdonald, Paul, The Star System: Hollywood’s Production of Popular Identities, Columbia University Press, 2001.

Pugh, Martin, We Danced All Night: A Social History of Britain Between the Wars, Vintage, 2009.

Об использовании парфюма в психотерапии: «Nightmare Routed by

Music, Perfume», New York Times, 17 May 1935.

Реклама из Time, 17 May 1937.

«Beauty Notes from Paris», Harper’s Bazaar, UK edition, March 1937.

О стиле жизни дебютантки: Anne de Courcy, 1939: The Last Season, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2012; Lucinda Gosling, Debutantes and the London Season, Shire Publications, 2013.

The Queen, c. 1936 (issue unknown).

Edith Sitwell, Harper’s Bazaar, UK edition, c. 1936 (issue unknown).

SKIN BRACER

Mennen advertisement for Skin Bracer, featured in LIFE, 8 October 1945.

Об использовании товара во время Корейской войны: Robert W. Black, A Ranger Born: A Memoir of Combat and Valor from Korea to Vietnam, Random House Publishing Group, 2007.

SCANDAL

О парфюмерных диспенсерах: Kerry Segrave, Vending Machines: An American Social History, McFarland & Co., 2002.

О судебном иске Guerlain к тем, кто переливал парфюм в другие флаконы: https://casetext.com/case/Guerlain-inc-v-woolworth-co-1, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.

VOL DE NUIT

О первых перелетах: Tom D. Crouch, Wings: A History of Aviation from Kites to the Space Age, Norton, 2004.

О романе, который вдохновил Guerlain на создание парфюма: Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Vol de Nuit, Gallimard, 1931.

Elizabeth Bowen, To the North, Penguin, 1932.

TWEED

Об истории Harris Tweed: Francis G. Thompson, Harris Tweed: The Story of a Hebridean Industry, A.M. Kelley, 1968.

«Rustic Cloth Goes to Night Clubs», LIFE, 17 October 1939.

BLUE GRASS

О бизнесе Элизабет Арден и о том, как Blue Grass использовали в конюшнях: Lindy Woodhead, War Paint, Madame Helena Rubinstein and Miss Elizabeth Arden: Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry, Virago, 2012.

О дизайне СПА-курорта Maine Chance: Victoria Sherrow, For Appearance’ Sake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty, and Grooming, The Oryx Press, 2001.

«Getting Away From It All», Vogue, American edition, 15 May 1933.

«Give Yourself the Maine Chance», Vogue, American edition, 15 April 1937.

FLEURS DE ROCAILLE

Caron Corporation v. R.K.O. Radio Pictures, Inc., 28 N.Y.S. 2d 1020 (N.Y. App. Div. 1941).

Отчет об иске Caron к студии R.K.O. из-за использования Fleurs de Rocaille в фильме «Путь Примроуз» (Primrose Path), see: Variety, 27 March 1940.

SHOCKING

Об Эльзе Скьяпарелли, ее жизни и модном доме: Elsa Schiaparelli, Shocking Life: The Autobiography of Elsa Schiaparelli, J.J. Dent & Sons Ltd, 1954; Patricia Volk, The Art of Being a Woman: My Mother, Schiaparelli, and Me, Hutchinson, 2013; Judith Watt, Vogue on: Elsa Schiaparelli, Quadrille, 2012.

Jean Cocteau, “From Worth to Alix”, Harper’s Bazaar, March 1937.

OLD SPICE

Об истории Shulton и товаров Old Spice для коллекционирования: http://www.oldspicecollectibles.com/, посещение 29 апреля 2015 г.

COLONY

О парфюмерном коктейль-баре Жана Пату: http://jeanpatouperfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/cocktail-by-jean-patou-c1931. html, посещение 29 апреля 2015 г.

Mrs James Rodney, «To and Fro», Harpers Bazaar, January 1937.

Peter Fleming, “Cameras Over Cathay”, Harper’s Bazaar, June 1937.

ALPONA

Об истории катания на лыжах и лыжных курортов: Roland Huntford, Two Planks and a Passion, Bloomsbury Continuum, 2013.

Лыжная мода 1930-х годов описана в: Jenny De Gex, The Art of Skiing: Vintage Posters from the Golden Age of Winter Sport, Universe, 2006.

Об истории Солнечной долины в Айдахо: E. John B. Allen, From Skisport to Skiing: One Hundred Years of an American Sport, 1840–1940, University of Massachusetts Press, 1993; Wendolyn Holland, Sun Valley: An Extraordinary History, The Idaho Press, 1998; Van Gordon Sauter, The Sun Valley Story, Mandala Media LLC, 2011.