Щедрое начало века: 1900–1909

Bayer, Patricia, and Waller, Mark, The Art of Renй Lalique, Book Sales, 1996.

Coleman, Elizabeth Ann, The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat, Thames & Hudson, 1989.

Hattersley, Roy, The Edwardians: Biography of the Edwardian Age, Abacus, 2006.

Ledger, Sally, and Luckhurst, Roger (eds), The Fin de Siècle: A Reader in Cultural History, Oxford University Press, 2000.

Mesch, Rachel, Having It All in the Belle Epoque: How French Women’s Magazines Invented the Modern Woman, Stanford University Press, 2013.

ВВЕДЕНИЕ

О воздушных шарах фирмы Gosnell: John Gosnell, Through the Fragrant Years: A History of the House of Gosnell, Gosnell (John) and Co., 1947.

Об ароматизированных товарах Rimmel: Eugene Rimmel, Rimmel’s Perfume Vaporizer for Diffusing the Fragrance of Flowers in Apartments, Ball Rooms etc., [1865?]; Eugene Rimmel, Recollections of the Paris Exhibition of 1867, Chapman and Hall, 1868.

О кольцах с парфюмом от Piesse & Lubin: Edward McDermott, The International Exhibition 1862: The Illustrated Catalogue of the Industrial Department, Volume 1: British Division 1, Cambridge University Press, 2014.

О том, как шили ароматизированные саше см.: «A Christmas of Perfumes and Sachets», Chicago Daily Tribune, 20 December 1903.

Подробнее об использовании иононов в парфюмерии: http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/perfumery-materials-violetviolet-leaf.html, посещение 6 Maя 2015 г.

О сборе урожая роз: «The Poetry of Perfume», Vogue, American edition, 1906.

LE PARFUM IDÉAL

О Чарльзе Дане Гибсоне и девушках Гибсона: http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/gibson-girls-america/index.html, посещение 24 апреля 2015 г.

О Всемирной выставке 1900 года: Alexander C.T. Geppert, Fleeting Cities: Imperial Expositions in Fin-de-Siècle Europe, Palgrave, 2010; Guidecommode indicateur de l’Exposition universelle de 1900, L. Joly [1900?]; Richard D. Mandell, Paris 1900: The World’s Great Fair, University of Toronto Press, 1967; Melanie Paquette Widmann, 212 Days – The Paris Exposition of 1900, CTG Publishing, 2013.

О золотой леди на этикетке: «Beauty Business», Vogue, American edition, November 1934.

LE TRÈFLE INCARNAT

О сложностях отношения к этому парфюму: http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2010/03/the_popularity_of_clover_aroma.html, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.

Об этикете позднего викторианского периода и нравах общества: Gertrude Elizabeth Blood, Etiquette of Good Society, Cassell and Co., 1893; Lady Troubridge, The Book of Etiquette, The World’s Work Ltd, 1913.

О популярности амилсалицилата и Le Trèfle Incarnat: The Spatula Magazine, Volume 16, 1909; The National Druggist, Volume 38, 1908.

Berta Ruck, Miss Million’s Maid: A Romance of Love and Fortune, Hutchinson & Co., 1915.

Compton Mackenzie, Carnival, Martin Secker, 1912.

Agnes Castle, Diamonds Cut Paste, John Murray, 1909.

CLIMAX

история каталога Sears, Roebuck в американской культуре: David L. Cohn, The Good Old Days: A History of American Morals and Manners as Seen Through the Sears, Roebuck Catalogs 1905 to the Present, Simon and Schuster, 1940.

Исторические каталоги Sears, Roebuck and Co., 1896–1900: http://search.ancestry.co.uk/search/db.aspx?dbid=1670, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.

О влиянии американских железных дорог: Richard Saunders, Merging Lines: American Railroads, 1900–1970, 2nd edn, Northern Illinois University Press, 2001.

MOUCHOIR DE MONSIEUR

Иллюстрация «An Exquisite Alias Dandy in Distress» [1819?] любезно предоставлена Lewis Walpole Library: http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imegeId=1w1pri2017, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.

L’origan

Об истории универмагов: Robert Hendrickson, The Grand Emporiums: The Illustrated History of America’s Great Department Stores, Stein and Day, c. 1979; Jan Whitaker, The Department Store: History, Design, Display, Thames & Hudson, 2011; Lindy Woodhead, Shopping, Seduction & Mr Selfridge, Profile, 2012.

Упоминание о фонтане с фиалковой водой: Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames, Charpentier, 1883.

Об истории Франсуа Коти и его парфюмерном бизнесе: Roulhac B. Toledano and Elizabeth Z. Coty, François Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money, Pelican, 2009.

Ранняя реклама парфюмов Coty в США: The Salt Lake Herald, 16 March 1905.

О наследии Coty: http://graindemusc.blogspot.co.uk/2008/08/Cotylorigan-lheure-bleue-without-blues.html, посещение 6 мая 2015 г.

SHEM-EL-NESSIM

Об ориентализме в торговле: William Leach, Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture, Vintage, 1994.

Virginia Lea, “Sweet Odors’, Vogue, American edition, June 1899.

Издания журнала Physical Culture: http://libx.bsu.edu/cdm/search/collection/PhyCul, accessed 28 April 2015.

Bernarr Macfadden, The Virile Powers of Superb Manhood: How Developed, How Lost; How Regained, Physical Culture Publishing, 1900.

POMPEIA

О неизменном интересе к Помпеям: Judith Harris, Pompeii Awakened: A Story of Rediscovery, I.B. Tauris, 2007; Ingrid D. Rowland, From Pompeii: The Afterlife of a Roman Town, The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 2014.

О парфюмах L.T. Piver на теплоходе SS Republic: http://odysseysvirtualmuseum.com/categories/SS-Republic/Artifacts/Bottles/Cosmetics/?sort=featured&page=1, посещение 7 мая 2015.

О традиции худу: Katrina Hazzard-Donald, Mojo Workin’: The Old African American Hoodoo System, University of Illinois Press, 2013.

Примеры использования Pompeia в ритуале худу: Ray T. Malbrough, Hoodoo Mysteries: Folk Magic, Mysticism & Rituals, Llewellyn Publications, 2003; Kenaz Filan, Vodou Money Magic: The Way to Prosperity through the Blessings of the Lwa, Destiny Books, 2010.

AMERICAN IDEAL

Исторические каталоги California Perfume Company: the Avon Historical Archive at the Hagley Library, at: http://digital.hagley.org/cdm/search/collection/p15017coll20, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.

PEAU D’ESPAGNE

О рецептах Peau d’Espagne девятнадцатого века: G.W. Septimus Piesse, The Art of Perfumery and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants, Lindsay and Blakiston, 1857.

Havelock Ellis, Studies in the Psychology of Sex: Sexual Selection in Man, 1927.

Анализ Peau d’Espagne в декадентской поэзии: Catherine Maxwell, «Scents and Sensibility: The Fragrance of Decadence», Jason

David Hall and Alex Murray (eds.), Decadent Poetics: Literature and Form at the British Fin de Siecle, Palgrave Macmillan, 2013.

James Joyce, Ulysses, Sylvia Beach, 1922.

O. Henry, «Past One at Rooney’s», Strictly Business: More Stories of the Four Million, Doubleday, Page & Co., 1910.

Театральные десятые годы: 1910–1919

Adlington, Lucy, Great War Fashion: Tales from the History Wardrobe, The History Press, 2013.

Doyle, Peter, First World War Britain: 1914–1919, Shire, 2012.

Gosling, Lucinda, Great War Britain: The First World War at Home, The History Press, 2014.

Nicholson, Virginia, Among the Bohemians: Experiments in Living 1900–1939, Viking, 2002.

Nicholson, Virginia, The Great Silence, John Murray, 2010.

О внутривенных инъекциях парфюма: «Perfume Now Injected», New York Times, 1 October 1912.

О «Русском балете» как источнике вдохновения для парфюмов: Davinia Caddy, The Ballets Russes and Beyond: Music and Dance in Belle-Époque Paris, Cambridge University Press, 2012.

О парфюмах в театре: «Inspiring an Actress to Act by Giving Her a Perfume «Jag», The Washington Herald, 23 May 1915; «Perfume Jag» Is Aid to Acting», Oakland Tribune, 16 May 1915.

NARCISSE NOIR

Jean Nathan, The House of Satan, Alfred A. Knopf, 1926.

For the judgement on Caron’s attempt to protect the intellectual property of Narcisse Noir, see: Caron Corporation v. Conde, Limited, New York Supreme Court, 213 N.Y. Supp. 785.

Репортажи из сала суда во время слушаний по делу Narcisse Noir: Patent and Trademark Review, Volume 23, 1923; The Business Law Journal, Volume 8, 1926; The Trade-mark Reporter, Volume 17, 1927.

SPECIAL № 127

О рекламе, в которой упоминаются аристократы-покровители парфюмов: La Belle Assemblée, 1 December 1812.

POINSETTIA

История девушек «Гэйети»: http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/9009, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.

О новом театре «Гэйети» и его шоу: http://www.arthurlloyd.co.uk/GaietyTheatreLondon.htm, accessed 28 April 2015.

A review of Peggy at the Gaiety Theatre in 1911, The Play Pictorial, Volume XVIII, Number 107.

Olive May quote in Poinsettia advertisement, Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News, Volume 76, 1912.

Leslie Stuart, «The Lass with the Lasso» in Peggy, 1911.

NUIT DE CHINE

О Поле Пуаре и его парфюмах: Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, PoIret, Yale University Press, 2007; Paul PoIret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul PoIret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest, V&A Publishing, 2009.

«An Alchemist in Perfumes», Vogue, American edition, 1 August 1916.

О бале «1002-я ночь»: Aleksandr Vasil’ev, Beauty in Exile: The Artists, Models, and Nobility who Fled the Russian Revolution and Influenced the World of Fashion, Harry N. Adams, 2000.

Robert Forrest Wilson, Paris on Parade, Bobbs-Merrill, 1925.

Anne Archbald, “The Vanity Box’, Theatre Magazine, December 1922.

ESS VIOTTO

О женщинах, работавших во время Первой мировой войны: Susan R. Grayzel, Women’s Identities at War: Gender, Motherhood, and Politics in Britain and France during the First World War, University of North Carolina Press, 1999; Deborah Thom, Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War I, I.B. Tauris, 1998.

Bronnley advertisement for Ess Viotto, featured in The Sketch, Volume 90, 1915.

ENGLISH LAVENDER

The Sketch, 7 April 1915.

«The Lavender Country», The Farmer’s Magazine, July 1872.

The Sketch, 13 December 1916.

LE BOUQUET PRÉFÉRÉ DE L’IMPÉRATRICE

Обзор советских парфюмов: http://www.realussr.com/ussr/soviet-brands-the-scent-of-communism-part-1-of-2/, accessed 28 April 2015; Susan E. Reid, “Gender and the Destalinisation of Consumer

Taste in the Soviet Union Under Khrushchev’ in Emma Casey and

Lydia Martens (eds), Gender and Consumption: Domestic Cultures and the Commercialisation of Everyday Life, Ashgate, 2007.

Elena Skrjabina, After Leningrad: A Diary of Survival During World War II, Southern Illinois University Press, 1978.

О культурности в советской культуре: Oleg Kharkhordin, «Reveal and Dissimulate: A Genealogy of Private Life in Soviet Russia» in Jeff Weintraub and Krishan Kumar (eds), Public and Private in Thought and Practice: Perspectives on a Grand Dichotomy, University of Chicago Press, 1997.

«Perfume Commemorates Joint Space Mission’, Lakeland Ledger, 16 July 1975.

LE FRUIT DÉFENDU

Более подробно о черно-белом фильме «Белоснежка»: Robert K. Klepper, Silent Films, 1877–1996: A Critical Guide to 646 Movies, McFarland, 1999.

CHYPRE

О Франсуа Коти и его парфюмерном бизнесе: Roulhac B. Toledano and Elizabeth Z. Coty, François Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money, Pelican, 2009.

MITSOUKO

Об истории парфюмов Guerlain: Colette Fellous, Guerlain, Denoël, 1987.

Более подробно о линейке парфюмов Guerlain: http://www.monsieur-Guerlain.com, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.